Batty McBatface ~ Crochet Pattern

IMG_2162For this project you will require:

Wool: approximately 75 yards (I used Cascade 220 Superwash) (worsted weight), and a small amount of an alternative colour for the bat’s nose.

A crochet hook suitable to your yarn weight. (When making amigurumi I recommend using a smaller hook than your yarn weight suggests. This keeps stitches tight, creating a solid fabric.) I used a 4mm hook when making these bats.

darning needle

7mm safety eyes 

soft fibre fill

stitch marker


Stitches and Abbreviations (North American terms):

magic circle (magic ring, magic loop):
Make a loop a few inches from the end of your yarn. Grasp the join of the loop (where the 2 strands of yarn overlap) between your left thumb and forefinger. Insert hook into the loop from front to back. Draw up a loop (also known as a chain [ch 1]). Insert hook into the loop, so you are crocheting over the loop and the yarn tail. Draw up a loop to begin your first sc of Round 1.

yo = yarn over:
Yarning over (abbreviated yo) in crochet is the most basic step when making a stitch. Yarning over means wrapping the yarn over your crochet hook. Yarn overs are used before or after you insert the hook into the next stitch, and depending on the stitch you are working, you may yarn over two or more times.

sc = single crochet stitch
Insert the hook through stitch space, yarn over and pull through from back to front.

sc inc = single crochet increase stitch
Two single crochet stitches into one stitch of the previous round.

sc dec = single crochet decrease stitch combines two stitches from the previous round into one stitch. (I use the invisible decrease stitch: hook through the front loops of the next two stitches to decrease (three loops on the hook), yarn over and pull through the first two loops, yarn over again and pull through the two loops on the hook.)

fasten off = pull the working yarn through the stitch to close the loop to finish the project

Let’s Begin!

Body & Head

Worked from the bottom up in one piece:

Magic circle with eight single crochet stitches, join (do not slip stitch) and begin:

Round 1 – 2 sc in each (16)

Round 2 – sc, sc inc, repeat (24)

Round 3 – 2sc, sc inc, repeat (32)

Round 4 – sc in each (32)

Round 5 – sc in each (32)

Round 6- sc, sc dec, repeat (24)

Round 7 – sc in each (24)

Round 8 – 2 sc, sc dec, repeat (18)

Round 9 – sc in each (18) 

Round 10 – 3 sc, sc dec, repeat (16) (stuff the body with some fibre fill)

Round 12 – sc in each (16)

Round 13 – sc dec, repeat (8)

Round 14 – 2 sc in each (16)

Round 15 – sc, sc inc, repeat (24)

Round 16 – 2 sc, sc inc, repeat (32 (continue stuffing the body with a little more fibre fill, using the back end of your hook to stuff it through and into the neck.)

Round 17 – sc in each (32)

Round 18 – sc in each (32)

Round 19 – sc in each (32)

Round 20 – sc in each (32)

IMG_2086

Round 21 – 2 sc, sc dec, repeat (24)

Round 23 – 1 sc, sc dec, repeat (16) (Place eyes into the face between rounds 18-19 eight stitches apart.) (This is a good time to stitch the nose in place.)

Round 24 – sc dec, repeat (8) (fishing adding fibre fill)

IMG_2016

Fasten off leaving a long tail, sew through the last six stitches to close them, then sew the tail through the body (to hide) and snip off the remaining end.

For the Ears:

Begin with a magic circle with three single crochet stitches.

Round 1 – 2 sc in each (6)

Round 2 – 2 sc in first stitch, sc in each of the rest in the round (7)

Round 3 – 2 sc, sc inc, repeat (9)

Round 4 – 3 sc, sc inc, repeat (11)

Round 5 – 4 sc, sc inc, repeat (13)

Round 6 – 5 sc, sc inc, repeat (15)IMG_2084

Round 7 – sc in each (15)

Round 8 – sc in each (15)

Fasten off. Fold the ear in half and (using the daring needle) sew the two sides together with a single stitch. Attach to the top of the head on either side above the eyes.

For the Legs:

Chain 8.

IMG_2023

Stitching into the back bar of the chain: sc in the second chain from the hook, sc in the next back bar of the chain (2),

Chain 3, stitching into the back bar of the chain: sc in the second chain from the hook, sc in the next back bar of the chain (2),

Chain 3, stitching into the back bar of the chain, 

IMG_2029

sc in the second chain from the hook, sc in the next back bar of the chain (2),

Pick up the two loops of the previous two chains (three loops on the hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops, yo and single crochet into each of the back bar of the remaining chain (5).

IMG_2035

Repeat for second leg.

Attach to the bottom of the bat body using the darning needle.

Wings/Arms

Note: To keep stitches facing the same way for both wings: when working on the bat’s right wing chain one and turn on the first row of the wing. For the bat’s left wing chain one but don’t turn, instead fold the chain stitch around the arm and begin working stitches into the chain.  

Chain 18IMG_2101

Stitching into the back bar of the chain: sc in the second chain from the hook, sc in the next back bar of the chain (2),

Chain 3, stitching into the back bar of the chain: sc in the second chain from the hook, sc in the next back bar of the chain (2),

Chain 3, stitching into the back bar of the chain, sc in the second chain from the hook, sc in the next back bar of the chain (2),

Pick up the two loops of the previous two chains (three loops on the hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops, yo and single crochet into each of the back bar of the remaining chain (15).

Chain 1, turn, sc in each of the next 15 stitches, chain 1, turn, sc in each of the nest 15 stitches, chain 1, turn,

sc in each of the next 14 stitches, chain 1, turn, sc in each of the next 14 stitches, chain 1, turn,

sc in each of the next 13 stitches, chain 1, turn, sc in each of the next 13 stitches, chain 1, turn,

sc in each of the next 12 stitches, chain 1, turn, sc in each of the next 12 stitches, chain 1, turn,

sc in each of the next 11 stitches, chain 1, turn, sc in each of the next 11 stitches, chain 1, turn,

sc in each of the next 10 stitches, chain 1, turn, sc in each of the next 10 stitches, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Repeat for second arm/wing, noting the differences stated above.

IMG_1993I suggest blocking the wings. “Blocking” in knitting and crochet is a term used to describe the process of gently cold water washing a finished project to relax and soften the fibres. Once bathed in cold water, the item is layed down and pinned to shape to a breathable surface. Blocked garments hang better, move more naturally, and look neater.

In the case of amigurumi parts, there’s no rocket science involved. I used a washcloth from the shop that I use when wet felting, pinned the wings spanned out and let them dry. IMG_2160

Sew the wings to the bat body using the darning needle. Sew the arm to the neck and the base of the wing to just above the leg on either side. Tack the arm to the neck with a single stitch, then tack the base just above the leg. The wing will find a natural curve around the body: stitch from the leg to the neck then secure with a knot to the neck stitch. Hide the ends of the yarn by stitching through the body and clipping the ends.

IMG_2134

Enjoy your bat!IMG_2162

Shop Update

If you were lucky enough to be in my shop a few Saturdays ago when my pipes froze and my bathroom exploded, you might have been even luckier to be one of the ones running to the back to offer help… at which point you would have learned that shop walls hide some horrific messes. For months the space outside the bathroom has served as my recycling pile area (imagine lots of boxes), furniture waiting to be painted area, tool storage area, photography area, boxes of bags area, my family’s kitchen, and my closet.

On my list of a million things to do this week, tidying this area was important.

There were three pieces of furniture to paint and add to the shop: my mother’s table, a clock which was donated to the store, and the base of one of the hutches – the top of which is in use housing the needles, it is on top of a dresser rather than its base because the dresser offers better storage for …more needles.

The base is now beside the checkout counter to gives me some extra storage for bags (Adrienne😂) and shop operations stuff. Now called my little blue sideboard, it is my favourite piece in the shop. (Still needs to be hinged, clearly..)

<<<<<<
ck was donated by some new friends, and I'm not sure how much if its story they would want to share. I think it's safe to say the clock was deeply appreciated by its original owner, but for complicated reasons it hasn't seen love (or the light of day) for years. It is the hope that the clock will find a new life in the shop. I think it already has.

My mother’s table has been in my sunroom for a few years serving as my workshop table. With its leaf it seats six, but Not comfortably. Without the leaf it transforms into an adorable pedestal table, and that is how I’ll use it. It was going to be painted white, and the first coat went on white – in fact the base already had its second coat when I decided to go at it with the blue paint, and I love it. Blue round table it is. We’ll use the round table near the entrance to the shop for a few purposes. I’ve noticed people need more space to put wool down and look at colours, compare, or match. This will be our table for that.

There has been some organisation accomplished this week, but still a lot to go. I’ll be moving on to plan B for the main shelving unit, so please be patient while I make the arrangements. There is no one more eager to see the shelves in place than me.

As for wool…

I’ve been busy coordinating the workshop schedule, and hope to post an updated list to the blog later this weekend. Upcoming classes include: beginner knitting, knit lace making, sock knitting, (hopefully knit fiddlehead mittens), crochet amigurumi cacti, crochet amigurumi mice, needle felt sculpture: chickadees, needle felt sculpture: valentine heart garland, needle felt sculpture: Easter eggs with simple embroidery embellishment.

< img src=”https://olivesandbananas.files.wordpress.com/2018/01/img_4403-1.jpg&#8221; class=”size-full wp-image-1750″ height=”3024″ width=”3024″>< img src=”https://olivesandbananas.files.wordpress.com/2018/01/img_5018.jpg&#8221; class=”wp-image-1754 size-full” height=”750″ width=”750″>< img src=”https://olivesandbananas.files.wordpress.com/2018/01/img_5015.jpg&#8221; class=”wp-image-1752 size-full” height=”750″ width=”750″><<<<<<
orkshops in planning include yoga for stitchers and knitting with an energy healer. (I'm really intrigued by these two!)

Thank you, everyone, for your patience as everything falls into place.

My Hannah Bunny

img_4560This little bunny was built by eye, there are no stitch counts just rough numbers and rows. I know people really rely on patterns and stitch numbers, but I believe that in amigurumi being a stitch or two off doesn’t make that much of a difference. When shaping bodies you should feel free to make your shape as plump or thin as you want. If you understand increasing and decreasing in the round this should be easy.

I wasn’t thinking of writing this pattern while I was making it, so my notes are rough, and I didn’t take photos along the way, so please bear with this “pattern.”

My finished bunny is about 11 inches tall. This yarn is a sport/light weight and I used a D hook to help give you reference.

The head and body are made starting with a magic circle of eight.(I find starting with eight gives the shape a flat-round appearance, while when starting with six make a more true round shape.)

The body:

Magic circle 8

row1: 2sctog in each stitch 16img_4790

row2: sc, 2sctog

row2: 2 sc, 2sctog

row3: 3 sc, 2sctog

row4: 4 sc, 2sctog

row5: sc in each

row6: 5 sc, 2sctog

rows 7-18: sc in each

rows 19: 5 sc, 2st decerease

rows 20-23: sc in each

rows 23-34: slowly decrease every other row (starting every two rows, maybe three) to form the body -I didn’t count my stitches or follow the same decrease pattern – some decrease rows I only decreased every five or six stitches, and I wasn’t really following rows anymore – just stitch along to shape a body. My neck ends with about 14 stitches.

I find I work a lot faster without a stitch marker or worrying too much about rows. I concentrate more on shaping the body the way I like for each individual project rather than trying too hard to be exact.
The head:img_4794

Magic circle 8

row1: 2sctog in each stitch 16
row2: sc, 2sctog

row2: 2 sc, 2sctog

row3: 3 sc, 2sctog

rows 4-10: sc in each

row11: 3 sc, 2st decrease

Now is a good time to place your safety eyes. Position them somewhere around row 7 eight stitches apart (the placement really is entirely up to your judgement.) I stitched the nose in after the head was finished using pink yarn and a darning needle criss crossed over six stitches between the eyes. I thread the ends into the form then gently felt the yarn in place to keep it secure.

row12: 2 sc, 2st decrease

row 13: 1 sc, 2st decrease

Stuff your head.

Close the rest using either a darning needle or slip stitches.

The ears, arms, and legs all begin with a magic circle of six.

Ears:

Magic circle 6

row1: sc in each 12img_4789

row2: sc, 2sctog 18

row3: 2 sc, 2sctog

row4: 3 sc, 2sctog

rows 5-7: sc in each

row8: 3 sc, 2st decrease

rows 9-34: sc in each

(I think I decreased somewhere along the way to make them about 20 stitches around in the end.)

To finish the ears I cut a piece of pale pink felt to size and used a 42 gauge felting needle to gently felt it into place. This works beautifully with natural fibres. (Acrylic yarn might need some stitches.)

I didn’t take photos of the head before I attached the hat, so I can’t show you the attachment of the ears (but I should note that I stitched the hat on using a light thread, so the hat can be removed without damaging the bunny.

The ears are attached by using the leftover end to sew it together then in place. Pinch the ear to give it a fold, sew the fold together – then sew the ear to the head at the back side along row 2.

Arms:img_4788

Magic circle 6

row1: sc in each 12

row2: sc, 2sctog 18

row3: 2 sc, 2sctog

row4: 3 sc, 2sctog

rows 5-8: sc in each

(somewhere around now, stuff the hand using a small amount of batting.)

rows 9-13: decrease using one st decrease stitch

rows 13-20: sc in each
Legs:img_4792

Magic circle 6

row1: sc in each 12

row2: sc, 2sctog 18

row3: 2 sc, 2sctog

row4: 3 sc, 2sctog

row5: hdc in each (this gives your foot a bit of a flat appearance.)

row6: sc in each to two loops of row 5

rows 7-9 sc in each

row 10: 2 sc, 2 st decrease

rows 11-20: sc in each

Stuff the foot using a small amount of batting.

When decreasing the foot you can put all your decrease stitches one right after another then continue with sc for the rest of the row – this will define a toe and heel of the foot. OR you can distribute the decrease stitches evenly (3 sc, 2st decrease) for the row to create a round foot. Either works.. in the case of this Hannah bunny I distributed them evenly.

Tail:

I used a bright white chunkier yarn and made a small ball:img_4787

Magic circle 6

row1: sc in each 12

row2: sc, 2sctog 18

row3: 2 sc, 2sctog

row4: sc in each

row5: 2 sc, 2st decrease

row6: 1 sc, 2st decrease

row7: 2st decrease until closed, leave a long end for sewing it to the body.

TIP: when attaching, I always felt the area lightly with a super fine gauge felting needle. This secures the fibres and holds everything in place.

To make her Pussy Hat simply start with a chain big enough to fit your bunny’s head. Close it with a slip stitch careful not to twist it. Rows of HDC follow, each being closed with a slip stitch until you’ve reached your desired size. Close it with slip stitches across the top. Done. Attach it to your bunny’s head using thread and straight stitches to easily remove it if you want later on.