Needle Felted Gingerbread Cookies

Recipe for Needle Felted Gingerbread CookiesIMG_2802

For this project you will require a foam work surface and I strongly recommend leather finger protectors.

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The process of needle felting is simple: pierce the wool lightly and repeatedly with the needle. The barbs of the felting needle bind the micro fibres of the wool, which holds the shape. 

Needle felting is a slow process, many people describe it as meditative and relaxing. I spend approximately 45 minutes working on each cookie before decorating.

A gentle touch with the felting needle is all that’s needed. The more you felt the more your project will compress and the smaller and dense it will become.

For the 2×2.5 inch cookie cutter included in the kit, use approximately 3 inches/2

grams/.05 ounce of wool roving. To make your own using a standard 3×3.5 inch cookie cutter use approximately 5 inches/5 grams/.10 ounce of merino wool roving for each cookie. These amounts are variable. My finished cookies are 5-8mm thick (depending on which size cutter I use), soft and bendable, but sturdy and solid.

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Let’s Begin!

Place the cutter on the foam work surface.

Pull off a small tuft of wool roving, and pull the fibres apart using your fingers to fluff and mix it up. Work using small amounts at a time to prevent clumping. Place the puff of wool into the cutter and repeat this process until the cutter is solidly filled.

Using a medium gauge felting needle, pierce the wool in the cutter until it felts down. You may need to add more wool here and there, especially in the feet and hands. Once the cookie starts holding its shape, flip the cutter and felt from the other side.IMG_2867Be sure not to felt deeply into the foam work surface. The foam is there just to be a soft surface to work against. Allowing your needle to pierce the foam too much will both dull the needle and waste your energy. Remember, you are felting the wool, not the foam.

Take care to not hit your needle against the metal cutter. This is an easy way to break your needle. Use the cutter as a guide, carefully felting the wool along the edges.

Continue to felt both sides, flipping the cutter periodically to make sure you’re creating an evenly felted surface.

Once the cookie is felted and holds its shape outside the cutter, continue to felt the surface with a fine felting needle to smooth the surface, Wearing finger protectors is a good idea for this part!

Decorate your cookie with colourful wool roving, beads, wool yarn, or embroidery floss. String them together as a garland, add a ribbon to create an ornament for the tree. These little guys make a great hostess gift, or a nice addition to tie on to a gift this holiday season.IMG_2815

Please don’t eat wool cookies. ;o) 

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Kits are sold at the shop!IMG_2926

Batty McBatface ~ Crochet Pattern

IMG_2162For this project you will require:

Wool: approximately 75 yards (I used Cascade 220 Superwash) (worsted weight), and a small amount of an alternative colour for the bat’s nose.

A crochet hook suitable to your yarn weight. (When making amigurumi I recommend using a smaller hook than your yarn weight suggests. This keeps stitches tight, creating a solid fabric.) I used a 4mm hook when making these bats.

darning needle

7mm safety eyes 

soft fibre fill

stitch marker


Stitches and Abbreviations (North American terms):

magic circle (magic ring, magic loop):
Make a loop a few inches from the end of your yarn. Grasp the join of the loop (where the 2 strands of yarn overlap) between your left thumb and forefinger. Insert hook into the loop from front to back. Draw up a loop (also known as a chain [ch 1]). Insert hook into the loop, so you are crocheting over the loop and the yarn tail. Draw up a loop to begin your first sc of Round 1.

yo = yarn over:
Yarning over (abbreviated yo) in crochet is the most basic step when making a stitch. Yarning over means wrapping the yarn over your crochet hook. Yarn overs are used before or after you insert the hook into the next stitch, and depending on the stitch you are working, you may yarn over two or more times.

sc = single crochet stitch
Insert the hook through stitch space, yarn over and pull through from back to front.

sc inc = single crochet increase stitch
Two single crochet stitches into one stitch of the previous round.

sc dec = single crochet decrease stitch combines two stitches from the previous round into one stitch. (I use the invisible decrease stitch: hook through the front loops of the next two stitches to decrease (three loops on the hook), yarn over and pull through the first two loops, yarn over again and pull through the two loops on the hook.)

fasten off = pull the working yarn through the stitch to close the loop to finish the project

Let’s Begin!

Body & Head

Worked from the bottom up in one piece:

Magic circle with eight single crochet stitches, join (do not slip stitch) and begin:

Round 1 – 2 sc in each (16)

Round 2 – sc, sc inc, repeat (24)

Round 3 – 2sc, sc inc, repeat (32)

Round 4 – sc in each (32)

Round 5 – sc in each (32)

Round 6- sc, sc dec, repeat (24)

Round 7 – sc in each (24)

Round 8 – 2 sc, sc dec, repeat (18)

Round 9 – sc in each (18) 

Round 10 – 3 sc, sc dec, repeat (16) (stuff the body with some fibre fill)

Round 12 – sc in each (16)

Round 13 – sc dec, repeat (8)

Round 14 – 2 sc in each (16)

Round 15 – sc, sc inc, repeat (24)

Round 16 – 2 sc, sc inc, repeat (32 (continue stuffing the body with a little more fibre fill, using the back end of your hook to stuff it through and into the neck.)

Round 17 – sc in each (32)

Round 18 – sc in each (32)

Round 19 – sc in each (32)

Round 20 – sc in each (32)

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Round 21 – 2 sc, sc dec, repeat (24)

Round 23 – 1 sc, sc dec, repeat (16) (Place eyes into the face between rounds 18-19 eight stitches apart.) (This is a good time to stitch the nose in place.)

Round 24 – sc dec, repeat (8) (fishing adding fibre fill)

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Fasten off leaving a long tail, sew through the last six stitches to close them, then sew the tail through the body (to hide) and snip off the remaining end.

For the Ears:

Begin with a magic circle with three single crochet stitches.

Round 1 – 2 sc in each (6)

Round 2 – 2 sc in first stitch, sc in each of the rest in the round (7)

Round 3 – 2 sc, sc inc, repeat (9)

Round 4 – 3 sc, sc inc, repeat (11)

Round 5 – 4 sc, sc inc, repeat (13)

Round 6 – 5 sc, sc inc, repeat (15)IMG_2084

Round 7 – sc in each (15)

Round 8 – sc in each (15)

Fasten off. Fold the ear in half and (using the daring needle) sew the two sides together with a single stitch. Attach to the top of the head on either side above the eyes.

For the Legs:

Chain 8.

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Stitching into the back bar of the chain: sc in the second chain from the hook, sc in the next back bar of the chain (2),

Chain 3, stitching into the back bar of the chain: sc in the second chain from the hook, sc in the next back bar of the chain (2),

Chain 3, stitching into the back bar of the chain, 

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sc in the second chain from the hook, sc in the next back bar of the chain (2),

Pick up the two loops of the previous two chains (three loops on the hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops, yo and single crochet into each of the back bar of the remaining chain (5).

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Repeat for second leg.

Attach to the bottom of the bat body using the darning needle.

Wings/Arms

Note: To keep stitches facing the same way for both wings: when working on the bat’s right wing chain one and turn on the first row of the wing. For the bat’s left wing chain one but don’t turn, instead fold the chain stitch around the arm and begin working stitches into the chain.  

Chain 18IMG_2101

Stitching into the back bar of the chain: sc in the second chain from the hook, sc in the next back bar of the chain (2),

Chain 3, stitching into the back bar of the chain: sc in the second chain from the hook, sc in the next back bar of the chain (2),

Chain 3, stitching into the back bar of the chain, sc in the second chain from the hook, sc in the next back bar of the chain (2),

Pick up the two loops of the previous two chains (three loops on the hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops, yo and single crochet into each of the back bar of the remaining chain (15).

Chain 1, turn, sc in each of the next 15 stitches, chain 1, turn, sc in each of the nest 15 stitches, chain 1, turn,

sc in each of the next 14 stitches, chain 1, turn, sc in each of the next 14 stitches, chain 1, turn,

sc in each of the next 13 stitches, chain 1, turn, sc in each of the next 13 stitches, chain 1, turn,

sc in each of the next 12 stitches, chain 1, turn, sc in each of the next 12 stitches, chain 1, turn,

sc in each of the next 11 stitches, chain 1, turn, sc in each of the next 11 stitches, chain 1, turn,

sc in each of the next 10 stitches, chain 1, turn, sc in each of the next 10 stitches, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Repeat for second arm/wing, noting the differences stated above.

IMG_1993I suggest blocking the wings. “Blocking” in knitting and crochet is a term used to describe the process of gently cold water washing a finished project to relax and soften the fibres. Once bathed in cold water, the item is layed down and pinned to shape to a breathable surface. Blocked garments hang better, move more naturally, and look neater.

In the case of amigurumi parts, there’s no rocket science involved. I used a washcloth from the shop that I use when wet felting, pinned the wings spanned out and let them dry. IMG_2160

Sew the wings to the bat body using the darning needle. Sew the arm to the neck and the base of the wing to just above the leg on either side. Tack the arm to the neck with a single stitch, then tack the base just above the leg. The wing will find a natural curve around the body: stitch from the leg to the neck then secure with a knot to the neck stitch. Hide the ends of the yarn by stitching through the body and clipping the ends.

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Enjoy your bat!IMG_2162

Spring Onion Crochet Pattern

Spring OnionIMG_3403 (2)
Crochet Pattern

For this project you will need:

9 yards of worsted weight yarn in white
(I used Cascade 220 superwash.)

1 yard of worsted weight in light/lime green yarn

48 yards of a soft dk weight yarn in forest green
(I used Diamond Luxury Collection
100% Super Baby Alpaca.)

a pair of 6 or 7 mm safety eyes

a small amount of fibre fill

3.75mm crochet hook

a darning needle

a stitch marker

Optional: some rustic jute twine to tie around your onion in a bow for decoration
– or to tie a bunch together.

Let’s Begin!IMG_3409 (1)

For the white part of the onion:
Begin with a magic circle of 6 single crochet stitches

Round 1: 2 sc in each (12)

Round 2: 1 sc, sc inc (repeat) (18)

Round 3: 2 sc, sc inc (repeat) (24)

Rounds 4-6: sc in each (24)

Round 7: sc, sc dec (repeat) (18)

Round 8: sc in each (18)

Place the safety eyes between rows 5 and 6
approximately 6 or seven stitches apart.

Round 9: sc, sc dec (12)

Round 10: sc in each (12)

SWITCH COLOUR TO LIGHT/LIME GREEN

Round 11: sc in each (12)

Round 12: sc in each (12)

Fasten off leaving an end long enough to sew to the green stalks.

Stuff your onion with a small amount of fibre fill.

To make the white roots for your onion:
Use your leftover white yarn, and with your darning
needle thread through the bottom where the magic
circle comes together. Stitch six or eight times leaving
two inch long loops. Snip the ends of the loops, then
untwine the ply of the yarn to create the squiggles.

Green StalksIMG_9499

To make the stalks stitch approximately 70 rounds in total slowly increasing from six stitches to ten.
There is no exact process of increasing, in fact by using a different count for each stalk, your onion will look more realistic. Your green onion stalks should measure between 8.5 and 10 inches when finished.

Fasten off two of the stalks, leaving a longer end on the third for sewing together.

Make three:

Magic circle of 3 sc crochet stitches

Round 1: 2 sc in each (6)

Rounds 2-9: sc in each (6)

Round 10: add one sc to this round anywhere (7)

Rounds 11-25: sc in each (7)

Round 26: add one sc anywhere (8)

Rounds 27-40: sc in each (8)

Round 41: add one sc anywhere (9)

Rounds 42-58: sc in each (9)

Round 59: add one sc anywhere (10)

Rounds: 60-70: sc in each (10)

To attach the green stalks to the white onion:

First, fasten off two of the green stalks, leaving the third with aIMG_3407 (1)long end for sewing.

Sewing just in the centre of the three stalks,
stitch the stalks together either using a slip stitch with your crochet hook or by using the darning needle.

Continue to stitch them together in the centre until you have approximately 12 stitches
around outside of the three stalks.

Use the light/lime green to sew the white onion to the green stalks, placing two stitches into each stitch.

Decorate your onion with a small piece of jute twine wrapped around a few times
then tied into a bow.

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ENJOY YOUR ONION!

Download the FREE PDF here:

Spring Onion Crochet Pattern

Easter Eggs Crochet Pattern

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These cute little Easter eggs are simple to make and fun for little ones’ fingers to fill and hide. This pattern makes an egg a little larger than a real chicken egg (size depends on your wool and hook size), and could be filled with anything your imagination can come up with. Little needle felted characters are an adorable addition – and someday I may find time to write an addendum to this pattern with instructions for those, but for now this egg pattern is an easy addition to Easter craft ideas, so I’m jotting it down to share with you all (even if Easter is over). 🙂

I used Bernat Satin 3.5 oz worsted in ‘Star Dust’ and an F hook (3.75mm). Your yarn and hook size will determine you finished product size. You’ll need a darning needle, stitch marker, and a pair of scissors.IMG_4009

Crochet Egg Pattern:

Begin with a magic circle of six.

Round 1: 2 sc in each = 12

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Round 2: sc, 2sctog inc, rep = 18

Round 3: 2 sc, 2sctog inc, rep = 24

Round 4: 3 sc, 2sctog inc, rep = 30

Rounds 5 – 8: sc in each = 30

Round 9: 3 sc, 2 sttog dec, rep = 24IMG_3997 (1)

Round 10: sc in each = 24

Round 11: sc in first six stitches, chain 19, connect with stitch 1 of 24 with a single crochet stich (beginning round 12.

Round 12: sc in each = 24 (when stitching into the 18 stitches of the chain, use the front loop only -flo- )

Round 13: 3 sc, 2 sttog dec, rep = 18

Round 14: sc in in each = 18

Round 15: 2 sc, 2 sttog dec, rep = 12

Round 16: sc in each = 12

Round 17: sc, 2 sttog dec, rep until youève got six stitches left in the round

Close using your darning needle to close the last six stitched, gently pulling it closed with each stitch. Bring the yarn through to the inside of your egg and secure with a hidden knot (or use a felting needle to secure the end).

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My Hannah Bunny

img_4560This little bunny was built by eye, there are no stitch counts just rough numbers and rows. I know people really rely on patterns and stitch numbers, but I believe that in amigurumi being a stitch or two off doesn’t make that much of a difference. When shaping bodies you should feel free to make your shape as plump or thin as you want. If you understand increasing and decreasing in the round this should be easy.

I wasn’t thinking of writing this pattern while I was making it, so my notes are rough, and I didn’t take photos along the way, so please bear with this “pattern.”

My finished bunny is about 11 inches tall. This yarn is a sport/light weight and I used a D hook to help give you reference.

The head and body are made starting with a magic circle of eight.(I find starting with eight gives the shape a flat-round appearance, while when starting with six make a more true round shape.)

The body:

Magic circle 8

row1: 2sctog in each stitch 16img_4790

row2: sc, 2sctog

row2: 2 sc, 2sctog

row3: 3 sc, 2sctog

row4: 4 sc, 2sctog

row5: sc in each

row6: 5 sc, 2sctog

rows 7-18: sc in each

rows 19: 5 sc, 2st decerease

rows 20-23: sc in each

rows 23-34: slowly decrease every other row (starting every two rows, maybe three) to form the body -I didn’t count my stitches or follow the same decrease pattern – some decrease rows I only decreased every five or six stitches, and I wasn’t really following rows anymore – just stitch along to shape a body. My neck ends with about 14 stitches.

I find I work a lot faster without a stitch marker or worrying too much about rows. I concentrate more on shaping the body the way I like for each individual project rather than trying too hard to be exact.
The head:img_4794

Magic circle 8

row1: 2sctog in each stitch 16
row2: sc, 2sctog

row2: 2 sc, 2sctog

row3: 3 sc, 2sctog

rows 4-10: sc in each

row11: 3 sc, 2st decrease

Now is a good time to place your safety eyes. Position them somewhere around row 7 eight stitches apart (the placement really is entirely up to your judgement.) I stitched the nose in after the head was finished using pink yarn and a darning needle criss crossed over six stitches between the eyes. I thread the ends into the form then gently felt the yarn in place to keep it secure.

row12: 2 sc, 2st decrease

row 13: 1 sc, 2st decrease

Stuff your head.

Close the rest using either a darning needle or slip stitches.

The ears, arms, and legs all begin with a magic circle of six.

Ears:

Magic circle 6

row1: sc in each 12img_4789

row2: sc, 2sctog 18

row3: 2 sc, 2sctog

row4: 3 sc, 2sctog

rows 5-7: sc in each

row8: 3 sc, 2st decrease

rows 9-34: sc in each

(I think I decreased somewhere along the way to make them about 20 stitches around in the end.)

To finish the ears I cut a piece of pale pink felt to size and used a 42 gauge felting needle to gently felt it into place. This works beautifully with natural fibres. (Acrylic yarn might need some stitches.)

I didn’t take photos of the head before I attached the hat, so I can’t show you the attachment of the ears (but I should note that I stitched the hat on using a light thread, so the hat can be removed without damaging the bunny.

The ears are attached by using the leftover end to sew it together then in place. Pinch the ear to give it a fold, sew the fold together – then sew the ear to the head at the back side along row 2.

Arms:img_4788

Magic circle 6

row1: sc in each 12

row2: sc, 2sctog 18

row3: 2 sc, 2sctog

row4: 3 sc, 2sctog

rows 5-8: sc in each

(somewhere around now, stuff the hand using a small amount of batting.)

rows 9-13: decrease using one st decrease stitch

rows 13-20: sc in each
Legs:img_4792

Magic circle 6

row1: sc in each 12

row2: sc, 2sctog 18

row3: 2 sc, 2sctog

row4: 3 sc, 2sctog

row5: hdc in each (this gives your foot a bit of a flat appearance.)

row6: sc in each to two loops of row 5

rows 7-9 sc in each

row 10: 2 sc, 2 st decrease

rows 11-20: sc in each

Stuff the foot using a small amount of batting.

When decreasing the foot you can put all your decrease stitches one right after another then continue with sc for the rest of the row – this will define a toe and heel of the foot. OR you can distribute the decrease stitches evenly (3 sc, 2st decrease) for the row to create a round foot. Either works.. in the case of this Hannah bunny I distributed them evenly.

Tail:

I used a bright white chunkier yarn and made a small ball:img_4787

Magic circle 6

row1: sc in each 12

row2: sc, 2sctog 18

row3: 2 sc, 2sctog

row4: sc in each

row5: 2 sc, 2st decrease

row6: 1 sc, 2st decrease

row7: 2st decrease until closed, leave a long end for sewing it to the body.

TIP: when attaching, I always felt the area lightly with a super fine gauge felting needle. This secures the fibres and holds everything in place.

To make her Pussy Hat simply start with a chain big enough to fit your bunny’s head. Close it with a slip stitch careful not to twist it. Rows of HDC follow, each being closed with a slip stitch until you’ve reached your desired size. Close it with slip stitches across the top. Done. Attach it to your bunny’s head using thread and straight stitches to easily remove it if you want later on.