This little bunny was built by eye, there are no stitch counts just rough numbers and rows. I know people really rely on patterns and stitch numbers, but I believe that in amigurumi being a stitch or two off doesn’t make that much of a difference. When shaping bodies you should feel free to make your shape as plump or thin as you want. If you understand increasing and decreasing in the round this should be easy.
I wasn’t thinking of writing this pattern while I was making it, so my notes are rough, and I didn’t take photos along the way, so please bear with this “pattern.”
My finished bunny is about 11 inches tall. This yarn is a sport/light weight and I used a D hook to help give you reference.
The head and body are made starting with a magic circle of eight.(I find starting with eight gives the shape a flat-round appearance, while when starting with six make a more true round shape.)
The body:
Magic circle 8
row1: 2sctog in each stitch 16
row2: sc, 2sctog
row2: 2 sc, 2sctog
row3: 3 sc, 2sctog
row4: 4 sc, 2sctog
row5: sc in each
row6: 5 sc, 2sctog
rows 7-18: sc in each
rows 19: 5 sc, 2st decerease
rows 20-23: sc in each
rows 23-34: slowly decrease every other row (starting every two rows, maybe three) to form the body -I didn’t count my stitches or follow the same decrease pattern – some decrease rows I only decreased every five or six stitches, and I wasn’t really following rows anymore – just stitch along to shape a body. My neck ends with about 14 stitches.
I find I work a lot faster without a stitch marker or worrying too much about rows. I concentrate more on shaping the body the way I like for each individual project rather than trying too hard to be exact.
The head:
Magic circle 8
row1: 2sctog in each stitch 16
row2: sc, 2sctog
row2: 2 sc, 2sctog
row3: 3 sc, 2sctog
rows 4-10: sc in each
row11: 3 sc, 2st decrease
Now is a good time to place your safety eyes. Position them somewhere around row 7 eight stitches apart (the placement really is entirely up to your judgement.) I stitched the nose in after the head was finished using pink yarn and a darning needle criss crossed over six stitches between the eyes. I thread the ends into the form then gently felt the yarn in place to keep it secure.
row12: 2 sc, 2st decrease
row 13: 1 sc, 2st decrease
Stuff your head.
Close the rest using either a darning needle or slip stitches.
The ears, arms, and legs all begin with a magic circle of six.
Ears:
Magic circle 6
row1: sc in each 12
row2: sc, 2sctog 18
row3: 2 sc, 2sctog
row4: 3 sc, 2sctog
rows 5-7: sc in each
row8: 3 sc, 2st decrease
rows 9-34: sc in each
(I think I decreased somewhere along the way to make them about 20 stitches around in the end.)
To finish the ears I cut a piece of pale pink felt to size and used a 42 gauge felting needle to gently felt it into place. This works beautifully with natural fibres. (Acrylic yarn might need some stitches.)
I didn’t take photos of the head before I attached the hat, so I can’t show you the attachment of the ears (but I should note that I stitched the hat on using a light thread, so the hat can be removed without damaging the bunny.
The ears are attached by using the leftover end to sew it together then in place. Pinch the ear to give it a fold, sew the fold together – then sew the ear to the head at the back side along row 2.
Arms:
Magic circle 6
row1: sc in each 12
row2: sc, 2sctog 18
row3: 2 sc, 2sctog
row4: 3 sc, 2sctog
rows 5-8: sc in each
(somewhere around now, stuff the hand using a small amount of batting.)
rows 9-13: decrease using one st decrease stitch
rows 13-20: sc in each
Legs:
Magic circle 6
row1: sc in each 12
row2: sc, 2sctog 18
row3: 2 sc, 2sctog
row4: 3 sc, 2sctog
row5: hdc in each (this gives your foot a bit of a flat appearance.)
row6: sc in each to two loops of row 5
rows 7-9 sc in each
row 10: 2 sc, 2 st decrease
rows 11-20: sc in each
Stuff the foot using a small amount of batting.
When decreasing the foot you can put all your decrease stitches one right after another then continue with sc for the rest of the row – this will define a toe and heel of the foot. OR you can distribute the decrease stitches evenly (3 sc, 2st decrease) for the row to create a round foot. Either works.. in the case of this Hannah bunny I distributed them evenly.
Tail:
I used a bright white chunkier yarn and made a small ball:
Magic circle 6
row1: sc in each 12
row2: sc, 2sctog 18
row3: 2 sc, 2sctog
row4: sc in each
row5: 2 sc, 2st decrease
row6: 1 sc, 2st decrease
row7: 2st decrease until closed, leave a long end for sewing it to the body.
TIP: when attaching, I always felt the area lightly with a super fine gauge felting needle. This secures the fibres and holds everything in place.
To make her Pussy Hat simply start with a chain big enough to fit your bunny’s head. Close it with a slip stitch careful not to twist it. Rows of HDC follow, each being closed with a slip stitch until you’ve reached your desired size. Close it with slip stitches across the top. Done. Attach it to your bunny’s head using thread and straight stitches to easily remove it if you want later on.
