Making of a Wool Shop: The Children’s Play Area

This area of the shop has evolved into a space of its own.

I knew the wall gets too much sun for yarn storage, so my first thought when I was planning the space was that it would be the community space. The wall did scream for a fireplace, and I loved the idea of cozy fireside seating by windows. We in the north have to source as much light and heat at possible!

It IS a cozy seating area beside a window and a fireplace, but it has become more of a children’s playroom than a yarn lovers gathering space. Stitchers do sit by the fire occasionally, but we usually squeeze around the three tables even if there’s too many of us. 😀 (which is so fun!)

The area around the fireplace grew into a wonderful play area for kids. The little table originally had a glass top and I had plans to fill it with decorative wool displays, but before I could put the glass back after painting it somehow filled with Oliver’s toys.

I’m often thanked for creating the space, but really it created itself. Kids now enjoy coming to the wool shop, and moms, dads, and grandparents appreciate the distraction while they shop. Sometimes kids have to be dragged out kicking and screaming when it’s time to go. :S

There’s a lot of weird stuff to pique the imagination: a mounted unicorn head (custom made by the beautifully talented @mommycansew), a monster garland made by @camphappyheart and me, melting snowmen, a toy alien by @sewwhimsicalbykatie, little felted creatures, crochet Oliver in a pumpkin, sheep and alpaca toys, and of course Shaun the Sheep on the smart tv.

This area isn’t what I originally planned but I couldn’t be happier with what it has become. I love that kids enjoy coming to the shop, and that their guardians feel a little less stress about taking littles out shopping. I know the juggle well.

My hope for a community creative space is constantly both affirming my intention and evolving on its own. It’s a great thing to watch.

Thank you all for making the shop what it is today!

Summer Stitch Along

Our summer stitch along is designed to be a workshop on the go. It’s difficult, especially in summer, to commit to weekends in a row at the yarn shop to complete a project in a designated workshop. By stitching along you can join us at the shop for tutorials and socials, while working on the steps in your own time.

To participate simply purchase your pattern from the designer and come by the shop to find your yarn. Cast on is June 16th from 1:00-4:00 pm at Olives and Bananas (or contact the shop to arrange a time to get you started).

Tiffany and I have been planning a combination of knit and crochet projects to keep us busy this summer. The Atelier cardigan by Heidi Kirrmaieris is our knit project, which Tiffany will lead. At the shop Tiffany has set aside kits of yarns measured in appropriate quantities for various sizes, so you don’t have to search the store for enough of the right yarn to use with this pattern. Don’t like what you see in the kits? We can help you find a yarn you’ll love.IMG_2423 (1)

~ ~ ~

I will host a couple different crochet projects: a simple amigurumi giraffe and a pretty crochet shawl made of flower motifs:

The amigurumi giraffe is one of my favourite toy patterns. It is designed by Allison North of KornflakeStew. Her patterns are well written, simple, and accessible for a beginner. Find her giraffe pattern here. IMG_1126 (2)

The amigurumi toys I make are worked in the round and all begin with the magic loop. This is an important step you’ll need to master to begin making these patterns. It just takes a little practice. Sharon Ojala has a simple YouTube tutorial on beginning that magic loop: watch it here. There are a few different approaches to the magic loop, but this video is closest to how I do it.

The Posy Crochet Shawl by Amanda Perkins was inspired by her summer garden, so I thought it was an appropriate project for the summer. This is a great pattern to use bits from your stash, or you can use just a couple colours to create a pattern. It would also look nice in autumn colours. There are lots of possibilities.

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Once again, to participate: purchase your pattern(s) from the designers, find your yarn from Olives and Bananas, and join Tiffany and I for the cast on June 16th from 1:00-4:00pm.

Crochet Pattern: Chocolate Covered Strawberries

IMG_6345Pattern writing doesn’t come easily to me, I think mostly because I prefer freestyle crochet and the variants that come of not worrying so much if your stitches are on point. Obviously, for straight items (blankets, squares, etc.) it’s important for stitch counts to match, but in the case of something like a strawberry is really doesn’t matter if you miss or add a stitch – the end result will still look alright.

When it comes to making these strawberries I encourage you to try to make each one different in some way – no two strawberries are the same size or shape, so use this pattern as a guide rather than an exact shape. When you create a tray of them they’ll look more realistic if they are all shaped uniquely.

I’m going to begin by directing you to this handy GUIDE TO CROCHET TERMS AND ABBREVIATIONS from The Spruce, this CROCHET GLOSSARY from Free-Crochet.com and this tutorial on how to make and work with the “magic ring” in amigurumi crochet: MAGIC RING BY PLANET JUNE. To make the green leaves it helps to know how to stitch into the back bar of a chain.

Notes about this pattern:

Not each row ends as one might expect — some end with “an extra stitch.” Also some rows start with an increase or decrease seemingly out of place. I try to space my increases and decreases according to the shape I’m intending to create rather than worrying whether or not it follows a specific crochet guideline. I think this creates a more realistic looking result.

Materials:

brown, red, and green yarn in similar weights *Why use art yarn? Sure you can create these using any yarn, but by using a tonal yarn or one with a variant of shades your result will be that much more interesting. To make this pattern I used Malabrigo Rios in Coco, Malabrigo Rios in Ravelry Red, and a green that I’ve lost the tag for but I’m pretty sure was made by Fleece Artist. That’s at least $75 in quality yarn skeins, but so worth it. This is also a great project for leftover bits – and why not make some white chocolate strawberries too! Any yarn will do, it’s entirely up to you.

The crochet hook you use will depend on the weight of your yarn. I like to size down when making amigurumi to help keep my stitches tight – for these strawberries I’m using a worsted weight and a 3.25mm hook (I cheated for the photo and used the pink 3.5mm!…)(..the 3.25 hook is orange and threw off the whole photography thing, hahaha).

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You’ll also need:

a stitch marker

a darning needle

polyfill stuffing

scissors

Chocolate Covered Strawberry Crochet Pattern: 

  1. Begin with a magic ring of four stitches (4)
  2. 2 sc in each (8)
  3. sc in each (8)
  4. 2 sc, sc inc, repeat (10)
  5. 3sc, sc inc, repeat (13)
  6. sc in each (13)
  7. 2sc, sc inc, repeat (17)
  8. sc in each (17)
  9. 3sc, sc inc (with one extra stitch at the end) (21)
  10. sc in each (21)
  11. HDC in each (21)

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  1. SWITCH TO RED, back loop only: sc in each (21)
  2. sc in each (21)

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  1. sc in each (21)
  2. 3sc, 2sctog dec, repeat (one extra stitch at the end) (17) (STUFF YOUR STRAWBERRY)

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  1. 2sc, 2sctog dec, reapeat (one extra stitch at the end) (13)
  2. begin with 2sctog dec, 1sc, repeat (8)
  3. SWITCH TO GREEN *this part of the pattern is variable and should be different with each “leaf” for a more realistic look (I alternate chains of four, five, and 6 for different sized leaves.)* ~ sc, 2sctog dec, ch 6, turn and into the second stitch from the hook hdc into the back bar of the chain, hdc in each back bar, sc into the red, 2sctog dec, chain 5, turn and into the second stitch from the hook hdc into the back bar, sc back into the red, 2sctog dec, chain 6, …repeat this process until you have five leaved on top of your strawberry. I work in those final decrease stitches with the leaves to close the strawberry.

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Finish your strawberry by using the darning needle to fasten off the loose end. Stitch the end through the strawberry to hide it and snip off the end.

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Shop Update

If you were lucky enough to be in my shop a few Saturdays ago when my pipes froze and my bathroom exploded, you might have been even luckier to be one of the ones running to the back to offer help… at which point you would have learned that shop walls hide some horrific messes. For months the space outside the bathroom has served as my recycling pile area (imagine lots of boxes), furniture waiting to be painted area, tool storage area, photography area, boxes of bags area, my family’s kitchen, and my closet.

On my list of a million things to do this week, tidying this area was important.

There were three pieces of furniture to paint and add to the shop: my mother’s table, a clock which was donated to the store, and the base of one of the hutches – the top of which is in use housing the needles, it is on top of a dresser rather than its base because the dresser offers better storage for …more needles.

The base is now beside the checkout counter to gives me some extra storage for bags (Adrienne😂) and shop operations stuff. Now called my little blue sideboard, it is my favourite piece in the shop. (Still needs to be hinged, clearly..)

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ck was donated by some new friends, and I'm not sure how much if its story they would want to share. I think it's safe to say the clock was deeply appreciated by its original owner, but for complicated reasons it hasn't seen love (or the light of day) for years. It is the hope that the clock will find a new life in the shop. I think it already has.

My mother’s table has been in my sunroom for a few years serving as my workshop table. With its leaf it seats six, but Not comfortably. Without the leaf it transforms into an adorable pedestal table, and that is how I’ll use it. It was going to be painted white, and the first coat went on white – in fact the base already had its second coat when I decided to go at it with the blue paint, and I love it. Blue round table it is. We’ll use the round table near the entrance to the shop for a few purposes. I’ve noticed people need more space to put wool down and look at colours, compare, or match. This will be our table for that.

There has been some organisation accomplished this week, but still a lot to go. I’ll be moving on to plan B for the main shelving unit, so please be patient while I make the arrangements. There is no one more eager to see the shelves in place than me.

As for wool…

I’ve been busy coordinating the workshop schedule, and hope to post an updated list to the blog later this weekend. Upcoming classes include: beginner knitting, knit lace making, sock knitting, (hopefully knit fiddlehead mittens), crochet amigurumi cacti, crochet amigurumi mice, needle felt sculpture: chickadees, needle felt sculpture: valentine heart garland, needle felt sculpture: Easter eggs with simple embroidery embellishment.

< img src=”https://olivesandbananas.files.wordpress.com/2018/01/img_4403-1.jpg&#8221; class=”size-full wp-image-1750″ height=”3024″ width=”3024″>< img src=”https://olivesandbananas.files.wordpress.com/2018/01/img_5018.jpg&#8221; class=”wp-image-1754 size-full” height=”750″ width=”750″>< img src=”https://olivesandbananas.files.wordpress.com/2018/01/img_5015.jpg&#8221; class=”wp-image-1752 size-full” height=”750″ width=”750″><<<<<<
orkshops in planning include yoga for stitchers and knitting with an energy healer. (I'm really intrigued by these two!)

Thank you, everyone, for your patience as everything falls into place.

Shooting Stars crochet pattern

 

IMG_6314I recently revealed the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever made. This dissected unicorn made for Colleen and her daughter has been getting a lot of love over Facebook and I’ve had countless requests for the pattern.

The unicorn can be stuffed with all his parts and buttoned closed. Inside a unicorn we find rainbows and shooting stars, a big rainbow heart and perfectly pink lungs, sparkling intestine and a gumdrop stomach, kidneys the colour of the sea and a liver that sparkles (because unicorns only drink champagne). His bum is filled with rainbow poop.

I wish I could write the whole pattern now, but there just isn’t the time. In the meantime I hope a little shooting star will keep you all believing.

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Follow the link below to a FREE pdf pattern for the unicorn’s shooting stars:

SHOOTINGSTARS_crochetpatternbyOlivesandBananas

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Enjoy!

Easter Eggs Crochet Pattern

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These cute little Easter eggs are simple to make and fun for little ones’ fingers to fill and hide. This pattern makes an egg a little larger than a real chicken egg (size depends on your wool and hook size), and could be filled with anything your imagination can come up with. Little needle felted characters are an adorable addition – and someday I may find time to write an addendum to this pattern with instructions for those, but for now this egg pattern is an easy addition to Easter craft ideas, so I’m jotting it down to share with you all (even if Easter is over). 🙂

I used Bernat Satin 3.5 oz worsted in ‘Star Dust’ and an F hook (3.75mm). Your yarn and hook size will determine you finished product size. You’ll need a darning needle, stitch marker, and a pair of scissors.IMG_4009

Crochet Egg Pattern:

Begin with a magic circle of six.

Round 1: 2 sc in each = 12

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Round 2: sc, 2sctog inc, rep = 18

Round 3: 2 sc, 2sctog inc, rep = 24

Round 4: 3 sc, 2sctog inc, rep = 30

Rounds 5 – 8: sc in each = 30

Round 9: 3 sc, 2 sttog dec, rep = 24IMG_3997 (1)

Round 10: sc in each = 24

Round 11: sc in first six stitches, chain 19, connect with stitch 1 of 24 with a single crochet stich (beginning round 12.

Round 12: sc in each = 24 (when stitching into the 18 stitches of the chain, use the front loop only -flo- )

Round 13: 3 sc, 2 sttog dec, rep = 18

Round 14: sc in in each = 18

Round 15: 2 sc, 2 sttog dec, rep = 12

Round 16: sc in each = 12

Round 17: sc, 2 sttog dec, rep until youève got six stitches left in the round

Close using your darning needle to close the last six stitched, gently pulling it closed with each stitch. Bring the yarn through to the inside of your egg and secure with a hidden knot (or use a felting needle to secure the end).

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A Felted Garden

A couple years ago I planted over 600 bulbs in the garden beds surrounding our house. They bloomed spectacularly last year and I’m anxiously hoping for a repeat this year.

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In Finn’s garden ‘White Clouds’ tulips give way to ‘Blue Amiable’ then to giant purple alliums with Mother of Thyme blanketing the bed. Under my oak tree (a tree I often focus on when taking time to breathe and visualize during yoga) a rainbow of tulips circles the trunk in mixed varieties of blue, purple, pink, red, orange, apricot and yellow – some tall and slim, others short and full, with delicate lily flowering ones too.

A bold patch of tall orange tulips stand at a south-east corner of a bed that surrounds the house, with four different purple tulips varieties in groups near the doors. (My mother would be very disapproving of the number of purple flowers in my garden.) My favourite patch of tulips is a yellow/pink lily flowering sweetheart called ‘Elegant Lady’ that I have planted on the south side of our house near Oliver’s playset.

For years I’ve loved photographing my garden and playing around with macro lenses and light. I didn’t think I could find anything better to photograph – or blog about- until I discovered wool. Better yet: gardens and wool together. The complimentary colours and textures come together so well in every photo, each inspiring me to make something or plant something. It’s all beautiful to work with – whether it’s with my hands and needles or with a lens.

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I’m feeling somewhat determined to felt one of each of my tulips so that I’ll have a complete set forever. Tulips are a simple felting project, though creating a thin, smooth petal takes time and a little patience. I wrap armature wire in wool for the stem, and blend shades of green wool for the leaves.

While I’m felting my tulips it will be fun to share my enthusiasm for tulip gardening and felting with others. There’s no reason to stop at tulips either. I hope to felt all kinds of flowers this year as they bloom in #amysgardentbay. IMG_8638

 

 

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My Hannah Bunny

img_4560This little bunny was built by eye, there are no stitch counts just rough numbers and rows. I know people really rely on patterns and stitch numbers, but I believe that in amigurumi being a stitch or two off doesn’t make that much of a difference. When shaping bodies you should feel free to make your shape as plump or thin as you want. If you understand increasing and decreasing in the round this should be easy.

I wasn’t thinking of writing this pattern while I was making it, so my notes are rough, and I didn’t take photos along the way, so please bear with this “pattern.”

My finished bunny is about 11 inches tall. This yarn is a sport/light weight and I used a D hook to help give you reference.

The head and body are made starting with a magic circle of eight.(I find starting with eight gives the shape a flat-round appearance, while when starting with six make a more true round shape.)

The body:

Magic circle 8

row1: 2sctog in each stitch 16img_4790

row2: sc, 2sctog

row2: 2 sc, 2sctog

row3: 3 sc, 2sctog

row4: 4 sc, 2sctog

row5: sc in each

row6: 5 sc, 2sctog

rows 7-18: sc in each

rows 19: 5 sc, 2st decerease

rows 20-23: sc in each

rows 23-34: slowly decrease every other row (starting every two rows, maybe three) to form the body -I didn’t count my stitches or follow the same decrease pattern – some decrease rows I only decreased every five or six stitches, and I wasn’t really following rows anymore – just stitch along to shape a body. My neck ends with about 14 stitches.

I find I work a lot faster without a stitch marker or worrying too much about rows. I concentrate more on shaping the body the way I like for each individual project rather than trying too hard to be exact.
The head:img_4794

Magic circle 8

row1: 2sctog in each stitch 16
row2: sc, 2sctog

row2: 2 sc, 2sctog

row3: 3 sc, 2sctog

rows 4-10: sc in each

row11: 3 sc, 2st decrease

Now is a good time to place your safety eyes. Position them somewhere around row 7 eight stitches apart (the placement really is entirely up to your judgement.) I stitched the nose in after the head was finished using pink yarn and a darning needle criss crossed over six stitches between the eyes. I thread the ends into the form then gently felt the yarn in place to keep it secure.

row12: 2 sc, 2st decrease

row 13: 1 sc, 2st decrease

Stuff your head.

Close the rest using either a darning needle or slip stitches.

The ears, arms, and legs all begin with a magic circle of six.

Ears:

Magic circle 6

row1: sc in each 12img_4789

row2: sc, 2sctog 18

row3: 2 sc, 2sctog

row4: 3 sc, 2sctog

rows 5-7: sc in each

row8: 3 sc, 2st decrease

rows 9-34: sc in each

(I think I decreased somewhere along the way to make them about 20 stitches around in the end.)

To finish the ears I cut a piece of pale pink felt to size and used a 42 gauge felting needle to gently felt it into place. This works beautifully with natural fibres. (Acrylic yarn might need some stitches.)

I didn’t take photos of the head before I attached the hat, so I can’t show you the attachment of the ears (but I should note that I stitched the hat on using a light thread, so the hat can be removed without damaging the bunny.

The ears are attached by using the leftover end to sew it together then in place. Pinch the ear to give it a fold, sew the fold together – then sew the ear to the head at the back side along row 2.

Arms:img_4788

Magic circle 6

row1: sc in each 12

row2: sc, 2sctog 18

row3: 2 sc, 2sctog

row4: 3 sc, 2sctog

rows 5-8: sc in each

(somewhere around now, stuff the hand using a small amount of batting.)

rows 9-13: decrease using one st decrease stitch

rows 13-20: sc in each
Legs:img_4792

Magic circle 6

row1: sc in each 12

row2: sc, 2sctog 18

row3: 2 sc, 2sctog

row4: 3 sc, 2sctog

row5: hdc in each (this gives your foot a bit of a flat appearance.)

row6: sc in each to two loops of row 5

rows 7-9 sc in each

row 10: 2 sc, 2 st decrease

rows 11-20: sc in each

Stuff the foot using a small amount of batting.

When decreasing the foot you can put all your decrease stitches one right after another then continue with sc for the rest of the row – this will define a toe and heel of the foot. OR you can distribute the decrease stitches evenly (3 sc, 2st decrease) for the row to create a round foot. Either works.. in the case of this Hannah bunny I distributed them evenly.

Tail:

I used a bright white chunkier yarn and made a small ball:img_4787

Magic circle 6

row1: sc in each 12

row2: sc, 2sctog 18

row3: 2 sc, 2sctog

row4: sc in each

row5: 2 sc, 2st decrease

row6: 1 sc, 2st decrease

row7: 2st decrease until closed, leave a long end for sewing it to the body.

TIP: when attaching, I always felt the area lightly with a super fine gauge felting needle. This secures the fibres and holds everything in place.

To make her Pussy Hat simply start with a chain big enough to fit your bunny’s head. Close it with a slip stitch careful not to twist it. Rows of HDC follow, each being closed with a slip stitch until you’ve reached your desired size. Close it with slip stitches across the top. Done. Attach it to your bunny’s head using thread and straight stitches to easily remove it if you want later on.

much ado about felting kits

Writing directions to something you do artistically is challenging. If I were to hand you a straight pipe cleaner and say, “shape this wire, wrap it in wool roving and turn it into a flying pig” can you? Many people can, but for those who can’t easily turn an image from their mind into something tangibly representative, they rely on directions. I consider needle felting to be a very simple craft, and I believe anyone can do it – even if you can’t easily turn a straight pipe cleaner into a pig-like shape.img_2846

When I create felting kits I want my instructions to be clear enough for someone who has never touched  felting needle or wool to understand, interpret, and be able to follow though to a completed project.

As I was learning to crochet I found the easiest patterns to follow were the ones with clear, colour photographs. I wouldn’t know how to write felting instructions without photographs..: swirl a swoop of wool roving into a mustache shape then whoop-dee-loop it into a crescent-like roll and add a twist of this colour and that colour then shape it into a bird and ta-da you’re done…. .

The hardest part, I find, is in taking the photos to show the project from beginning to end, and remaining consistent while completing this over a matter of days or weeks. I don’t have solid “work days” to do any of this, it’s all done in bits and pieces around life and motherhood. So when I’m writing instructions and I have this problem:img_4303

It drives.me.crazy.

Do you see it?

Light. It matters.

I have a whole series of photos of my flying pigs being made -which are what I write my instructions around. I try to take the photos around the same time of day in the same kind of light. I need daylight. I don’t know how to take good photos in artificial light, and I only know a bit about flash and that’s only for big areas, not close up sometimes macro photography of wool work. It doesn’t really matter which, so long as the photos are consistent. I’m picky about those kinds of details.

So, when I started the pig instructions I was working in bright sunlit light. Then the clouds rolled in and honestly in the last two weeks we’ve had all of three (maybe) sunny days … seriously, I’m going to start to wither soon. That many days of overcast grey weather can depress the most vibrant of people. I shouldn’t complain, today was nice and bright – but, of course, I had no time to work on pig photos. If I wait until my husband gets home it’s dark, or the sun is so low it’s shining straight on my table in blinding beams. I feel like I’m constantly chasing the light. The heavy clouds lately have been getting me down.

I wanted to take the photos for the pig instructions against my cutting board to show measure – as that is the most common question when people start one of my projects, because I don’t mention size or weights in my instructions. ( I don’t include that information because it doesn’t matter – you can make your sculpture as big or small as you want with the wool I provide, which is always enough to make one or more.) The photos with the backdrop of measure should give you a clear enough indication of the size I’m working with – and I include the various sizes of pigs I’ve made to show the differences. The problem with the blue backdrop of the cutting board is how it changes in the light. Wool also changes colour in the light, so in most of the photos the pig looks pinkish, but in some of them the pig looks a salmon colour, in others it’s very pale. In print the mis-matched images make my aesthetic brains cells explode.

None of the above photos are colour true enough in my mind – the salmon is close but too saturated, the pink is too pink. 

Once the instructions are written and I’m happy with it all, the assembly of the kits is just like fillingimg_3504 loot bags but with better stuff -like for your friends. It’s just the writing of instructions that makes it feel like work. (That said, as fun as the kits are to assemble it is a very time consuming undertaking..)
In the case of the chickadee kit, it took about a dozen prints before the final copies were printed, with many edits along the way – and apologies to early kit buyers for parts left out. (I completely forgot to add the part about felting the chickadee’s cheeks in the early versions, among other clarity problems..)

I’m almost there with the pig instructions, hoping to print the first distributable batch tomorrow and run from there. Kits will be available soon via email, facebook, instagram, locally I deliver, and they will be available at Pneumaticity downtown. Etsy distribution is just around the corner. *wink*


I am still working on some simpler kits, some just wool and needles, no instructions, some easy one card notes to follow, hoop kits (and workshops), PDF downloadable instructions, just wool combinations, and follow up chickadee, hummingbird, pig, and heart wool kits. Please bear with me as I find the time to pull this all together. It’s great fun, and I love the excitement around felting and fibre art, your support has made this all so rewarding.SMILE

Dragonfly Tales

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The book pictured is A Dazzle of Dragonflies by Forrest Lee Mitchell and James L. Lasswell. It’s an enchanting view into the world of dragonflies from an imaginative perspective.

There’s a dragonfly commision coming up that means a lot to me. Each custom order has had it’s poignant effect, and I feel privileged with the confidence and whole heartedness people share their stories. The upcoming dragonfly will in part bring some healing to breast cancer patients, and I can’t help but feel my mother strongly, imagining her holding my little Finn wherever they are, as I bring this project together.

On September 30th 2012 my husband and I travelled the north western shore of Lake Superior visiting artist’s studios as part of the Crossing Borders Art Tour. While at Betsy Bowen’s studio in my favourite escape Grand Marais, I bought this little print of dragonflies which were an illustration for the book Hawk’s Ridge. At the time I didn’t know what I would do with the green darner dragonflies, but the drawing captured a piece of my heart so I knew immediately this would be special.

One year later was the first day of my life without Finn. When I started decorating his nursery earlier that year, these dragonflies were the first thing I put in the room.

The drawing has always made me smile. It’s musical, playful, and elegant just as dragonflies are. Just think about the number of people who associate dragonflies with something magical or profound in their life, to me that says these widely adored insects do possess a connection to something mysterious and lovely.

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Betsy Bowen’s green darner dragonflies

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Also coming up is another infant elf hat using Dauntless Dragonfly from Expression Fibre Arts. Not only is this yarn stunning and soft, it’s named so appropriately, and is also the shades of my favourite Oliver baby blanket from Aunty Helen, Uncle Patric, and cousins Alex and Phoebe. It will be decorated in needlefelted dragonflies in a colour and number chosen by the buyer. I believe strongly in the ways we relate to symbols.

Some time ago I edited a photo I took of a dragonfly that Hannah rescued at Little Dog Lake one day when we were swimming with the dogs. It rested on her hand long enough for me to take a number of photos of it and it was beautiful. I won’t link the quote because I’m not sure the full text is really in context, at the time (when I was reading random leads to all things dragonfly) this particular quote sunk in deeply and still resonates.

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‘Hannah’s dragonfly’ 2010